Back to the Basics: Odessa, Ukraine
by Peter Knipp
@ 03 Aug 2018
With over 240 different nationalities residing within the city, Odessa is a bewildering diversity of cultures. Even hundreds of years ago, Odessa was known to be a city of intellectuals, a city where people could express themselves. They highly revere Pushkin, a poet not so popular back in Russia, but could speak his mind in Odessa. It is a city with a very deep history.
Odessa Opera House
In Odessa, a friend of mine, Peter Pashegot, who used to be captain of a passenger ship, gave us a tour. As somebody that is born and raised in Odessa, I was sure the man could show us the plain face of the city, without the usual whitewash. We had a chance to visit an amazing winery and restaurant, Shabo, with an intriguing history itself.
Just an hour and a half car’s ride away, it originated from Turkish occupiers, but was eventually modernised by a French botanist and Swiss wine makers a century a half ago before the Russians came. It had a museum and gallery, old wine containers, and beautifully sculptures - everything to preserve the heritage of the fine establishment. One thing that really caught my attention was their exhibition of macro photography – specifically a picture of a grape. It was in its fermentation stage, and you could see in every detail the bubbling that happened within!
Pashegot took us on a one and a half hour drive to a Cbeya, seafood restaurant with a stunning view (and amazing seafood as well). He showed us the most beautiful of locales for two whole days - a great example of the tremendous pride they have for their home. I can never repay this sort of hospitality. They are proud of, and appreciate what they have.
Georgian menu lunch with Peter Pashegot (far right)
The market is where the real people are, nothing fake about it. That’s where you see the average Joe, the farmers, the produce they’re selling, and the way they communicate. Odessa’s market, being a port city, was all about seafood, but on top of that so much more.
It was incredibly huge, with beautifully organised spice mixtures, categorised with a description for each, the best smoked chicken in Odessa that you can smell the moment you enter, and pork fat. Incredibly tasty pork fat, so different from what you get in Singapore.
Take a look at Singapore. It is a rat race – and who exactly is enjoying that? When is there a chance to smell the roses in a rat race? I can’t say much more as I’ve done the same thing – but now I’m looking for experiences of the most basic and simple nature. You can no longer impress me with a ‘Rolls,’ a ‘Benz,’ or a ‘Tiffany’, but with hospitality.
Kaya Demirer, Gülberk Aşyapar, Berna Akar, Siu Bee Knipp, Peter Knipp & Vedat Dilber
Everywhere I went on my trip, the hospitality was exemplary. In regards to hospitality, you will find that the cultures that have the least have the most to offer. They may not be competitively rich like many of us in Singapore, but they are happy – and they always welcome you in their homes.
On the topic of appreciation, I would like to thank
Turkish Airlines for their immense hospitality during the trip. It was an amazing, eye-opening journey, and one that I would recommend anybody to make, at least once, in their lifetime.
Adapted from the
Jul Aug 18 issue of Cuisine & Wine Asia.
