A Land Flowing With Wine & Oil: Bakalaki
by Qian Leung
@ 24 Nov 2017
Put together with lots of white, the blue of the ocean, and the wood of the forests,
Bakalaki, set within Tiong Bahru, was designed to evoke the feeling of being in Greece. Bakalaki (from ‘bakaliko’, meaning a small store, and ‘meraki’, meaning soul), has a corner dedicated to produce from Greece which you can bring home: fresh cheeses, preserved olives, and fragrant herbs, among others. It is especially dizzying going through the wine list, as every name is in Greek. “Some of our staff couldn’t even pronounce the names when they first came,” says restaurant manager Christos Parlapanis. “But these are flavours that we grew up with, and we want to create an authentic Greek experience here.” For example, Ktima Gerovasiliou Avaton is a blend of three indigenous grapes - limnio, mavroudi and mavrotragano - of which limnio dates back to the 5th century B.C. Its austere character, with notes of smoke, wood, incense, and herbs, reminds me of a wizened old man.
This is enjoyable with the grilled lamb, which had been marinated overnight with oregano, rosemary, and olive oil. “In Greece, the goats roam freely on the mountains, where they eat wild herbs like rosemary,” says Chef Spiros Palaiologos, who is from Athens. On the simply prepared, yet juicy taste of the grilled lamb, he says, “In Greece, grilling is common, as we have a family style of eating. On Sundays, cousins, aunties, and uncles, all come together to talk and drink around the barbecue.” 2016 Ktima Gerovasiliou Malagousia, with notes that reminds me of honey, and others of peach, apricot, mango, or even pear and fresh green pepper, features Malagousia, a grape that was about to disappear until an agricultural professor tried reviving it in the 1970s. It complements the platter of battered and deep-fried squid, octopus, prawns, and grilled Mediterranean sea bream, which tastes tender, and sweet.
From the Greek island of Chios, and its native mastic tree, comes a spirit named mastika, which has a liquorice-like aroma. It is usually served with almond desserts or at weddings as a digestif. Here, it is presented with lime and mint to bring out a hint of spiciness. To go with the traditional medicinal liquer, have some haloumi cheese from Cyprus, sliced and grilled with oregano and lemon. An island located to the south-east of Greece, Cyprus shares much of the culture, language, and cuisine with Greece. On another island, Santorini, native asstritiko and aidani grapes are made into a spectacular dessert wine, vinsanto, with rich and concentrated notes of stewed tangerines, sultanas, and a hint of frankinscence. It is served with the baklava, made with crushed walnuts, filo pastry, cinnamon, cloves, and honey, though I’d recommend enjoying it on its own, sip by sip, to fully appreciate its complexity and incredible length.
Traditionally, houses on Greek islands were built from dark volcanic stone. Hence, they were whitewashed to reflect the heat of the sun. Some of these have now been converted into boutique hotels, with cobbled steps leading down to seafood restaurants located along the coast. If all you knew about the country was from the 2002 film My Big Fat Greek Wedding, take another step towards getting to know the country through its food at the new Greek restaurant in town.
