Of Spices & Fruits, An Autumnal Baking Masterclass

by Darinee Durai @ 26 Oct 2016
Of Spices & Fruits, An Autumnal Baking Masterclass “Apples, pears and spices. These are some of the things that first come to mind when I think about autumn” says Chef Jenna White of Brettschneider’s Baking & Cooking School. While Singapore does not experience autumn, nothing stops us from enjoying the myriad of ingredients that autumn brings with it. Thus, we sook out Chef White to give a comprehensive baking masterclass to three SHATEC students (Claire Lim, Yeo Wern Ting and Doralyn Lim) on exactly how to best leverage and showcase nature’s wonderful autumnal bounty. Chef Jenna White starts by pouring the sugar into a pan, and heating it until it becomes a caramel. “A little trick I use is to leave it in the pan until it just starts to liquefy and caramelise around the edges before I stir it, this stops the caramel from crystallising.” She explains to the students. Meanwhile, while Chef White is preparing the caramel, Yeo Wern Ting and Doralyn Lim are peeling and coring the Granny Smith apples, before roughly dicing them into small pieces. Once the caramel is done, Chef White adds in the diced apples, as well as star anise, cinnamon sticks, cloves, vanilla pods, lemon juice, a strip of lemon zest and brown sugar. These ingredients are then cooked down until they are soft, and set aside to cool completely before use. Chef White has pre-prepared the parsnip ice cream, as it requires several hours to freeze until harden. The ice cream is prepared by peeling, coring and finely cutting parsnips, before cooking them in milk and cream until tender. After which, egg yolks and sugar are whisked together, before the cream mixture is poured over the egg yolks and whisked until fully combined. Chef White then places this mixture back into a pot and cooks the mixture, stirring at all times until it reaches at 80°C. The mixture is then blended with a hand-held blender, and strained into a bowl that is placed over an ice bath. The mixture is then left to cool completely, before being transferred into the chiller to infuse for a few hours. After which, Chef White churns the mixture with an ice cream maker.Chef White heats the milk, cream, ground cinnamon and vanilla pod in a pot. At the same time, she gets Claire Lim to whisk the egg yolks and sugar together. Once the milk mixture is hot, Chef White tempers the egg yolks with half of the milk mixture by gradually adding small amounts of the hot milk mixture while whisking the eggs. She explains to the students that this step is of critical importance, as doing it wrong may cause the eggs to scramble. Once that is done, Chef White pours the mixture back into the pot and continues cooking until it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. Then, this mixture is strained into a bowl that is sitting over an ice bath, and cooled in the chiller. Chef White begins by having Doralyn scrape the vanilla pod, while she explains to the students how to select, prepare and use these pods. “Generally, Madagascan vanilla beans are seen as the highest quality, and have a better flavour” she explains. Chef White also specifically requests for her to retain the husk of the vanilla pod, elaborating that these pods still contain flavour, and can be used to produce vanilla sugar. After which, Chef White beats the eggs yolk, vanilla, sugar and corn flour together, while she gets Yeo to boil some milk in saucepan. Chef White then pours the hot milk over the mixture, continually beating the mixture as she pours. This mixture is then returned to the saucepan and simmered over a low heat for about two to three minutes, taking care to have the mixture continually stirred to avoid burning. Once again, Chef White begins by flouring her workbench before starting to roll one portion of puff pastry until it is about 3-mm thickness. She then has Wern Ting to help cut out three 8-cm circles using a cutter. Chef White then places a dollop of crème pâtisserie in the middle of each circle, followed by a tablespoon of the spiced apple mixture. Chef White then has Doralyn eggwash the edges of the 8-cm circles, before cutting out three 9-cm circles, which will form the lid of the pithivier. Claire then places the 9-cm circles on top of the 8-cm circles, taking care to push the air out as she places the edges together. She then egg washes the top, and presses around the edges with a fork to ensure that the edges are sealed. The pithiviers are then baked at 230°C for about 12 to 14 minutes. Once the pithiviers are done, Chef White then places each pithivier on a plate, and serves it with the crème anglaise, a quenelle of the parsnip ice cream and garnish with micro mint. Chef White lightly beats the sugar and softened unsalted butter until it achieves a light, creamy consistency. She then adds the eggs, vanilla essence and ground ginger, where she enlists the help of Wern Ting to continue mixing until the ingredients are fully combined, cautioning the students not to overmix the pastry, as this will result in a product that is too elastic and doughy. Following that, Chef White allows the students to add the flour and stir the entire mixture until it forms a paste, once again taking care not to over mix the pastry dough. Once again, Chef White begins by beating sugar and softened unsalted butter until light and creamy. She then adds two slightly warmed eggs, taking care to add them gradually, explaining that this will avoid curdling. Doralyn then helped to add the ground walnuts and flour, before mixing until the filling was smooth, and had a cream-like consistency. Doralyn and Claire helped peel and core the pears, as well as create small, round balls of pear flesh by using a melon baller. Chef White then has the students toss the pear balls with lemon juice, explaining that this step not only prevents the pear from browning, but also adds a hint of acidity to the dessert. When this is done, Chef White boils the water, sugar, cinnamon stick and vanilla pod in a small pot, before adding the pears and leaving them to simmer until they are tender. These are then left to cool. Dried figs were also prepared by Chef White. She slices the figs into thin slices, before brushing them with a syrup glaze, made by boiling equal parts water with equal parts sugar. These fig slices are placed in a parchement-lined baking tray and bake in a pre-heated oven at 100°C for about an hour, the oven is then turned off, and the figs left to rest in the oven for another 30 minutes. Chef White explains to the students that these slices must be kept properly, as Singapore’s high humidity causes the slices to turn soggy very quickly. Chef White begins by lightly flouring her workbench, before gently re-working the sweet pastry dough. She then rolls out the sweet pastry dough into a 3-mm thickness sheet, and uses the pastry to line a 15-cm tart ring. Claire then helps Chef White dock the pastry with a fork, and fill the shell until two-thirds full with the walnut crème filling. The tart is then baked at 180°C for about 25 to 30 minutes. Chef White then heats up an apricot glaze, before having Wern Ting apply the glaze to the tart with a pastry brush. She mentions to the students that “it is very important that both the glaze and the tart are hot when you are applying the glaze, as the glaze will set extremely fast.” Once the tart is cooled, Chef White, together with the students, garnish the tart with the poached pear balls and glaze the tart again to gives the tart a nice, appealing sheen. “The tart is then finished with fresh figs, dried fig slices, edible flowers and herbs. During this step, Chef White explains to the students on the importance of colour and contrast when decorating a dish. It helps make the dish more colour, and also makes the colour of both the pear and of the flowers pop out a bit more.” She explains. This article was published in Cuisine & Wine Asia September October 2016 under Sweet + Bake Segment. In our printed edition, we spelled SHATEC wrongly as Shetec.