Why Restaurant Guides are Useless
by Siti Zawani
@ 10 Sep 2015
Andy Lynes of The Telegraph tells readers why not all those annual lists of ‘top restaurants of the year’ and the like ostracises some of the best produce-driven and honestly-cooked food that have not received their due recognition. “What I fundamentally disagree with is the false hierarchy created by the rating systems employed by the guides, which places modernist and haute cuisine on a pedestal above all other styles and which relegates traditional cooking to the lower leagues simply because they don't extend meals into four-hour marathons of guess-the-ingredient.
By prizing cooking that's ‘highly individual with impressive artistry’ (GFG) and restaurants with ‘highly individual voices, breathtaking culinary skills’ (the AA) the guides are steering their readers towards a niche, and often very expensive, style of dining.” Read on about it at
http://goo.gl/Us7aLc